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I learned that the traditional Indian blend podi – a rubble of searingly hot, coarsely crushed spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight barbecue sticks (if bamboo, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook half an hour
Serves two people

400g firm potatoes, chopped into 1.5-inch chunks
225g paneer, cubed into 2cm cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
One and a half teaspoon flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two garlic cloves, prepared and minced
1-inch piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
40ml neutral oil
1 red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then pour off the liquid and allow to air dry for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for 5 minutes, then drain and pat dry.

Add the spice seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then crush or grind to a chunky blend.

Transfer to a large mixing bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then lightly combine with the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Thread the paneer, potatoes and onions on to barbecue sticks, then transfer to a baking sheet and keep ready – if desired, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Whisk all the ingredients for the dressing in a mixing bowl. Heat the grill to its maximum heat, then grill the skewers for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the fierceness of your grill, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, sprinkled with a little more flaky salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.